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External Reviews
Joseline Dimbleby's Tour of the Backwaters. 'The Mail on Sunday', UK, August 4th, 2002.....Today families will open a few rooms to guests, making it possible to enjoy the atmosphere and hospitality of a real Indian home- as well as tasting their original dishes.... Two of the private homes we stayed in were on the 'islands' of the backwaters- areas of reclaimed land surrounded by canals..... The Kutty family were waiting for us on the jetty at 'Philipkutty's farm'...... Here we stayed in spotless comfort. Vinod's mother and wife, Anu, cooked us excellent meals, and demonstrated some favourite dishes. Their succulent duck curry was unforgettable...."
Five antique filled, waterfront villas at this family run Farm-stay on an Island.
Features
- Cookery Classes
- Painting
- Bird Watching
- Fishing
- Walking
- Working Farm
- Historic Sites
- Religious Sites
- Cycling
- Ayurvedic Treatments
| Philipkutty's Farm - Kumarakom, Kerala, India | |
Sustainability Scorecard
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good for you
This delightful Island farm-stay on an incredibly pretty fruit and spice farm provides an opportunity to relax in absolute comfort while enjoying everything the rich culture and gorgeous environment of the Keralan backwaters has to offer. Stay in one of five antique filled, waterfront villas and wake to a delicious homecooked breakfast. Take a stroll around the farm, take a cooking class or just relax with a book - (Arundhati Roy's celebrated "The God of Small Things" was set here) - in your beautifully decorated private cottage. At night, you'll share wonderful Keralan food with the family and other guests, and you can return to your porch to admire the clear starry skies above, and fireflies lighting the garden.
The centuries-old backwaters around the farm are typical of the many criss-crossing rivers, canals and natural water bodies that traverse the narrow coastal belt of Kerala. The vibrant community life along the banks offers an insight into Kerala's rich and varied culture, with its handmade country boats, delicious cuisine and traditional fishing methods, while the tranquil life lived on the farms, and the exotic flora and fauna that abound, make the place perfect for a relaxing and a fascinating holiday for travelers looking for a unique experience in a small, friendly place.
good for kerala
This farm stay is set on a beautiful little farm island which was actually reclaimed from the backwaters (Vembanad Lake) in the early 1950's by the current owner's grandfather. The working farm, which practices sustainable farming methods and is close to 100% organic, is two metres below the lake level and has coconut, toddy, nutmeg, banana, cocoa and pepper cultivation, while jumbo prawn (scampi) and karimeen (pearlspot) can be found in some of the farm canals. Much of the homestead and hotel's food is grown on the property, while local farmers and suppliers provide the rest. The farm uses bio-gas to meet some of its energy needs, and also has a rain harvesting facility. Owners and employees are all locals.
Highs
- The hospitality. You'll be well looked after by the Mathew family Vinod and his wife Anu, their son Philip and Vinod's mother Aniamma, who is a marvelous cook without sacrificing your privacy.
Lows
- Alcohol isn't served at meals, though guests are welcome to bring their own beer other alcohol is not welcome.
Rooms
Accommodation is in five cottages - three are small waterfront mini-villas with lake views, a sitting and writing area, as well as an ensuite bathroom. These are suitable for a couple, but can easily house up to three.
In addition, there are two larger, newer cottages, one of which is family sized, with two double bedrooms, each with ensuite bathroom, as well as a shared living area. Cottages have basic tea and coffee making facilities and a fridge, but no kitchen.
The five waterfront villas are entirely independent and set apart from the family residence. The first villa, designed by Karl Damscen, a Swiss architect, is a traditionally styled, antique filled, open plan affair, with sufficient space for a couple and an extra bed if need be. The other four villas, designed by Thomas Dominic, are the same in style and deco, but with separate bedroom, living room and verandah facing the peaceful waterfront.
All five villas are filled with antiques, including some beautifully carved and crafted doors and windows, which were meticulously collected over the years by the owners. There is no air-conditioning, no telephone and no TV in any of the villas. TV and telephones are available at the family's residence, should the need arise.
There is a well stocked refrigerated mini bar and an electric kettle in each room. The five villas are well furnished with two large single beds, wardrobe, cupboard, writing table and chair, settees and chairs on the verandah. The bathrooms are all spacious and modern. Extra beds are available if needed, and there is also a generator to backup the electricity in case of any power failure. All windows are screened to minimize insects. The floor is finished in rustic clay tiles and the ceiling in wood. There is also a small verandah finished in traditional red-oxide which runs around each villa.
Each villa has plenty of doors and windows opening onto the farm, garden and backwaters, allowing for fresh breezes, sunlight and delightful views. This is in keeping with the tradition of typical backwater bungalows. The idea was to make each villa an integral part of the surroundings so that by living in one you are not cut off, and you'll feel that you're living in a home rather than a hotel room.
To complement the villas, there is a beautiful thatched pavilion on stilts, overlooking the farm with views of the backwaters. The pavilion opens on to a small, neat courtyard under an old mango tree, and it's hear that you'll take some of your meals and get to know your hosts and fellow guests.


Food
Food is definitely one of the highlights of staying at Philipkutty's farm. The cuisine is mostly local and cooked by the skilful Mrs Mathews, Snr. Being a traditional agrarian household, plentiful meals are pretty much a way of life. All meals are included in the price.
Meals are served either in the family dining room or outdoors in the courtyard or in the pavilion. Self-catering facilities in the villas are minimal, with only an electric kettle and refrigerated mini-bar. The whole Mathews family, or at least some of its members, join you for meals, and the kitchen happily caters for special dietary needs or preferences. There is no room service at Philipkutty's Farm.
The cuisine is predominantly Syrian Christian with a strong backwater influence. Most of the dishes based on fresh fish and shellfish, farm vegetables and fruits, duck, chicken and occasionally other meats, supplemented with rice and rice-based local breads like appam. Red-hot Kerala fish curry, roast duck and prawn and scampi dishes are some of the farm's specialties.
For the adventurous, drinking Toddy (it is the fermented sap of the coconut tree- a kind of country liquor) is a must. Desserts are usually puddings, fresh fruits and some local treats.
The kitchen also caters for lunch parties that boat in from the mainland for the day. For resident guests who develop a taste for local cuisine, the farm offers cooking classes.
Features & Facilities
- Working Farm. Farm walks can be organised.
- Ayurvedic treatments including massage and various baths to treat various ailments.
- Fishing gear available
- Cookery classes available
- Painting classes and trips. Guided trips are available to spots ideal for painting. Materials, boat and guide are included.
- See also 'Local Info' section
insider tips
The best time _to visit is from October to March, which is the dry season, but if you don't mind the rains, then the rest of the year is also fine. The farmstay is open all year. It's best to stay for at least two or three days, due to the remoteness of the location and the range of activities to enjoy. The atmosphere makes Philikutty's perfect for longer stays - writers and artists will find plenty of inspiration, and cooking enthusiasts can take the time to learn the intricacies of Keralan cuisine.
What to bring along: Clothing that is loose fitting and suited to the warm weather and the local sensitivities and etiquette. Sunglasses, cream and insect repellent are also a good idea. Bring plenty of books if you like reading - the farmhouse has a small collection of books.
Local Info & Activities
- Enjoy a sunset cruise every evening on a vallam (country boat) out in the open backwaters. The sights, breeze, sounds and smell of the late evenings are very soothing, and if you are lucky you can also catch the moonrise.
- Take a canal cruise through the narrow and winding canals on a vallam or motor boat and catch a glimpse of the unique backwater villages.
- For bird watchers, the backwaters and the farm offer ample opportunities for sighting kingfishers, woodpeckers, egrets, cormorants, herons, crowpheasants, snakebirds, teals, and many others.
- Take a cooking class with Aniamma and learn the nuances of the local cuisine.
- Do a farm walk with any of your hosts and learn about farming below lake level as well as the different crops cultivated.
- Walk around the island along the outer dyke. This walk takes a little under 3 hours and covers a distance of approximately 8 kms. You can also walk in the village and the market on the mainland.
- Do a wider sightseeing and exploration trip of the countryside on bicycle. A sketch of the region can be provided by the farm, and you get to enjoy the picturesque scenery of coconut groves, paddy fields, canals and villages. Most of the roads in the mainland are flat with little or no gradient.
- Visit the Ayurvedic Centre opposite the property for consultation. Try out rejuvenating massages to proper Ayurvedic treatments for various ailments spread over weeks if need be.
- Try fishing (rods available), or, if you are lucky, see if you can spike scampi at night.
- Visit the St. Mary's parish church at Vechoor. This is an old church with a history dating back to over 500 yrs.
- Visit the local temples, of which there are plenty, the Vaikom Siva temple being the biggest and most famous.
- Visit a very old Nair Tharavad (traditional homestead) - 'The Kaimals'. The homestead has a history of over 400 yrs - you can see the old wooden family home, as well as the family temple, the old palm leaf manuscripts, the temple art of 'kalam' drawing and the giant Snake God statue.
- The property offers an ideal setting and is inspiring for writers and artists, but if you prefer to just relax and cool off, sit on the verandah or under the trees where you can observe the passing backwater life or catch up with your reading. At night, the view is filled with fireflies and the stars above, easily visible through unpolluted skies.
- Finally you could simply enjoy being part of the family, chatting with the Mathews family about farm life, Keralan culture, or just about anything else.
Sustainability
The farm is located on a small farm island (approx-750 acres) in the backwaters / Vembanad Lake next to Kumarakom within the Vechoor village limits. The farm is about 50 acres (owned by the family and some relatives) and is the largest farm on the island. The island is a reclaimed property, which was made in the early 1950s by the current owner, Vinod Mathew's, grandfather. Vinod's father, the late Philipkutty, undertook further development on the farm by bringing in a system of inter-crop farming. The island is called Puthankayal ('Puthan' means new) as it was the last island to have been reclaimed in the backwater region and used for agriculture.
Being a reclaimed property typical of the Kuttanad or backwater region, the farm is approx 2 mts. below the lake level. The retaining dyke around the perimeter of the island keeps the lake water from entering the farm. Being below the lake level, all the rain water is pumped out especially during the monsoon season, using an electric motor and pump. This is critical to the existence of the farm.
The farm is made up of ridges and canals, with all the planting done on the ridges. The canals are used for natural fish culture. Karimeen (pearl spot) and fresh water jumbo prawns (scampi) are grown naturally in some of the canals. The major crops on the farm are coconut, toddy tapping, nutmeg, cocoa, banana, pepper and many other fruits, vegetables and spices. Recently vanilla has been planted. The farm also has a few cows, geese, ducks and hens. The owners are members of the Vechoor Cow Trust and are aiding in the conservation of Vechoor cows by having one on the farm, with a view to obtaining some more. The reclaimed island has also helped Vechoor Village to develop by making land available to the local people, creating plenty of employment, and pasture for cows.
The farm was a 'modern' farm when it started, but in the last 10 years the owners have been systematically cutting down on chemicals and relying more on organic and natural farming methods. Today they have successfully cut down by 75 to 80% of all chemical inputs. At present the farm employs sustainable and organic methods of farming and the owners plan that in the coming years it will be a 100% organic farm.
The farm employs 15 people, all locals. Much of the fruit, vegetables and spices guests enjoy are grown on the farm, while meat and poultry are provided by local farmers.
The farm uses biogas to provide some of its energy, and conserves water with its rain harvesting facility.
Getting There
Located in the backwaters near Kumarakom, it's a 75km (60-90 minute) trip by road and boat from Kochi International Airport. The farm can arrange transfers, for an additional fee.
The farm is 50km from Kochi City and 65km from Cochin City.
Allepey is 27km and Kottayam is 20km.
Visit our Transport section for flights, hybrid car rentals and train bookings.
Rates & Bookings
MONSOON RATES - June 1st 2007 to Sept 30th 2007.
Double: Rs6000 / US$148
Single: Rs5000 / US$124
extra persons_sharing a villa
- children aged 0 to 5 are free.
- Children aged 6-12 are charged at Rs1500 / US$37
- Children over 12yrs + adults are charged at RS2500/US$62.
- All extra person rates include full board.
SEASON RATES - October 1st 2007 to May 31st 2008
Double:_Rs 9900 / US$245
Single: Rs 8900 / US$221
Extra persons_sharing a villa_
- children aged 0 to 5 are free.
- Children aged 6-12 are charged at Rs2000 / US$50
- Children over 12yrs + adults are charged at RS3000/US$74.
- All extra person rates include full board.
PEAK SEASON Rates December 21st 2007 to January 10th 2008
Double: _Rs 12000 / US$297
Single: _Rs 11000 / US$273
extra persons_sharing a villa
- children aged 0 to 5 are free.
- Children aged 6-12 are charged at Rs2000 / US$50
- Children over 12yrs + adults are charged at RS3000 / US$74.
- All extra person rates include full board.
included:
- All meals
- Sunset cruise on a country boat.
- Tea coffee and farm tour.
excluded:
- beverages
- activities outside the farm
- Transfers
- Hiring of boats.
- and other services out side the farm.
booking & cancellation policy
- A 10% non-refundable deposit is payable in order to secure a booking. The remaining 90% is payable on departure from PhilipKutty's.
- Cancellations made up until 4 weeks prior to arrival date will incur the loss of the 10% deposit only.
- Cancellations made between 4 and 2 weeks prior to arrival will incur a cancellation fee of 60% of entire cost of booking.
- Cancellations made 1 week or less prior to arrival will incur a cancellation fee of 100% cost of the stay.
- Cancellations made 2 weeks or less before arrival date during the peak season 21Dec to Jan10th will incur a 100% cancellation fee.
Want to avoid cancellation fees? Visit our Insurance section for information on travel insurance.



