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External Reviews

National Geographic – Borana Lodge in Kenya

Writer James Traub gets a taste of wild Africa in stylish comfort at this lodging that preserves the land and a way of life.

Read more …

Borana Ranch - Laikipia, Northern Kenya, Kenya

Sustainability Scorecard

Environmental Footprint
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Community Connection
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Architectural Conservation
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From $425 USD per person including game drives and all meals
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good for you

If you stay at this 1920s working ranch in the heart of Kenya you may feel as if you are in a scene from the film ‘Out of Africa’. Chose from 4 different accommodation options, some of which are wholly owned by Maasai and all of which combine old style African elegance with contemporary ‘safari chic’ – think African and colonial antiques, beautiful African rugs, artefacts, open fireplaces and locally made furniture.

Prices include all meals, drinks and safari activities; while definitely at the upper end of the market, a stay here is an unforgettably rich safari experience.

Watching elephants wandering down a well-trodden path on their way to the watering hole from your veranda is a delight that can only be found in this part of the world. The Laikipia is wild and blissfully inaccessible, making it one of the best and least visited Safari regions in Kenya.

As you leave the comfort of your cozy cottage for an early morning horse-ride you will be delighted by a picnic breakfast of fresh fruit and bacon and eggs cooked on an open fire in one of the secluded valleys. Walking or 4WD safaris are arranged by the Ranch where you can spot the ‘big five’.

Spending a day on the ranch is equally as interesting; here you can learn about the challenges of ranching in these hostile conditions – elephants in the vegetable patch, lions in the cattle bomas, flood, drought, famine and the daily equilibrium that is achieved between the needs of Africa’s predators and those of the doe-eyed humped cattle that give the ranch its name.

good for kenya

Borana makes a meaningful and sustainable contribution to the livelihoods of the indigenous local people, be it through direct employment or engagement in social and economic development activities, in a manner which fosters their respect for the environment and causes no harm to the quality and integrity of their traditional cultural values.

Its employment policy is to hire at least 90% of the staff from the local community and the owners were also involved in raising the finance to develop and construct two community lodges on their property, Tassia and Il’Ngwesi Banda, which are completely owned and managed by the Maasai people. You can opt to stay in these lodges or in the two other accommodation choices.

The ranch also financed the development of Kamotho Cultural Centre; is the largest private financial contributor to the Laikipia Wildlife Forum; and provides the venue for ‘Hide and Sheep’ – a natural tanning company which employs blind and physically disabled members of the community.

An educational support program provides bursaries to children from local primary schools, enabling them to go to secondary school and university. A mobile clinic also provides basic health care, HIV AIDS awareness, counselling, birth control and immunisation to all members of the local community. Borana also supports three women’s groups in the area which are involved in making local crafts which they sell.

A full time community liaison officer is based at the Borana office and works with local farmers to improve land and livestock management and create business opportunities for young members of the community.

Highs

  • The artworks: The walls of Borana Lodge are adorned with works of art by several Kenyan artists. One of these artists Penny Horsey lives on the Ngare Ndare River and she welcomes guests to her studio.
  • The community: Borana works closely with the local indigenous communities to improve their lives and ability to become self-sustaining. Two of the 4 accommodation options on the ranch are wholly owned by local Massai.
  • Child-friendly: Children are welcome at Borana and can participate in safari drives which is not the case with all African lodges.
  • The luxury items: The hand-made soaps, bath oils, lotions and shampoo in the guest bathrooms are made from essential oils of organically grown local herbs and spices.

Lows

  • It seems at odds with the property’s philosophy that guests are allowed to shoot sand grouse on trips to Kalacha.
 

Rooms

There are several styles of accommodation at Borana - from luxury cottages to community lodges.

1) Borana Lodge comprises eight cottages on the edge of the Samangua Valley, with panoramic views of Mount Kenya, the Lewa Plains and the Ngare Ndare Forest.

Built in 1992 by local artisans using local materials, the result is a supremely comfortable and luxurious lodge which is totally in keeping with its surroundings.

Four of the cottages have large double beds and four have twin beds - both of which are queen size. The lodge caters for a maximum of 18 guests and the emphasis is on privacy, with each cottage totally secluded from the next.

Each cottage has its own veranda except for the family cottage, where two cottages share a veranda which has a phenomenal view over the dam - the local watering hole for all the wildlife in the area.

There are open fireplaces in each room, which are lit every afternoon by the room stewardess; while the bathrooms are the epitome of luxury: spacious, clean and with exceptional views over wildest Africa.

Rooms are all decorated in 'safari chic' - beautiful handmade African rugs and textiles, artifacts and Kenyan art adorn the walls, rustic locally made furniture, crisp sheets and beautiful colourful bed coverings.

2) Laragai House is an extraordinary home built on the edge of an escarpment with stupendous views over Mt Kenya.

Prior to 2005 Laragai was a private home and the most opulent in the area. Furnished with antiques from Ireland, china from London and furniture from Rajasthan, the result is an eclectic mixture of styles and textures, which give the house a totally unique appearance. The six-bedroom house can sleep ten people in comfort but can cater for up to 16 guests.

The sitting room is 'African Baronial', with a thatched roof, enormous fireplace at either end, exquisite paintings on the walls and medieval weapons hanging above the doorways. The house also has ten permanent staff to attend to your every need.

masai owned lodges

Borana also borders two properties to the north which are wholly owned by the local Maasai community. The profits from these lodges go directly to the local communities and are used for family income, school projects, secondary school scholarships and game conservation in the surrounding area.

3) il n'gwesi lodge

Il N'gwesi won the British Airways eco-tourism award in 1999

The Lodge, built in 1993 is owned and run by the local Maasai community and was built with the minimum of environmental damage. It has a spring fed swimming pool looking out over a gorge and sleeps twelve people in six 'bandas'. Floor boards wrap around tree trunks, supporting the grass-thatched roofs. Below the lodge is a waterhole and 'hide' for observing game. The big five are regularly seen.

The six bandas feature handmade Maasai furniture and two of the bandas have been linked by a 'rope bridge' feature. Two Bandas have 'star beds' which when pushed out on the verandah allows sleeping under the stars.

The main sitting area looks north towards Samburu Game Reserve and the Mathews Range. Guests can rent the whole lodge on a self-catering basis or on a full board basis. There is an excellent cook on the property.

4) tassia lodge

Tassia was built in 2000 - entirely from local materials. No live trees were cut down to build the lodge and even the cement used was eco-friendly.

The lodge is owned and run by the local Maasai community. 6 cottages of breathtaking beauty line a ridge around a central living area and a swimming pool. The pool overlooks a natural water hole and is fed by an underground spring.

Tassia is at the foot of the Mokogodo Forest; it looks out towards the Mathews Range, sacred Mount Lolokwe and further north to Ethiopia - one of the most spectacular views in East Africa where at night no other artificial light can be seen.

Guest rent the entire lodge. It has 6 double bedrooms, all with ensuites and sleeps twelve adults and any number of children in a separate bunk-house.

There is an excellent chef at the lodge who will cook food brought by guests, or if you prefer not to self-cater, full catering can be arranged through Borana Lodge.

Room photo 1
Room photo 2
 

Food

Borana uses clean water for their food preparation and takes great pride in its exceptional menu, fresh fruits, salads and vegetables, tempting light lunch dishes and exotically delicious dinners.

All food is freshly prepared in the kitchen; using vegetables and produce from the farm, freshly squeezed juice from the orchard and wines from around the world.

Comfy leather sofas surround a huge fireplace in the central eating and sitting area with windows looking onto the valley below. A massive rosewood table in the dining room is where meals are served by friendly and attentive staff.

There is an excellent chef at Tassia and Il N’gwesi lodges who will cook full board meals if required. Guests can also opt to self-cater.

Features & Facilities

  • Accommodation for 18 guests in charming African-style cottages at Borana Lodge.
  • Unique accommodation for 16 guests in a private homestead at Laragai House.
  • Self catering or full board accommodation at the Maasai owned Il N'gwesi and Tassia lodges.
  • A range of activities including game drives, cultural excursions and nature tours can be arranged.
  • Museum/nature room with reference books and educational resources.
  • Satellite phone, Internet and email facilities are available at the Lodge and Laragai.
  • Laundry service
  • Gift shop with African art, as well as beadwork from the local tribesmen, handcrafted jewellery and many other knick-knacks and curios from Kenya.
  • Massage and beauty treatments
  • Swimming Pool

see also 'local info' section for more on activities

Local Info & Activities

This spectacular Laikipia region is considered the gateway to Kenya's wild Northern frontier country. Wild and sparsely populated. This is an area of beautiful wilderness, where protected game roams freely and safely. Centred around the original Laikipia National Reserve, this area has become a sanctuary for Elephant, Lion, Leopard, Buffalo, and a wealth of plains game, including many endemic Northern species.

Game drives: Borana has a fleet of custom-built four wheel drive vehicles to take you in search of the big game. Night game drives, when most animals are active, are very popular.

Bush walks: One of the best ways to see wildlife is on a guided bush walk. Seeing big game on foot is extremely satisfying and the slower pace means you may see smaller animals that you might miss from a vehicle.

Horse-riding: There are 26 horses on the property at Borana - and another unique transport method for game-viewing or just enjoying the country-side with a picnic.

North Kenya Polo Club: The property also keeps a stable of polo ponies and guests are welcome to 'stick and ball' at the nearby polo club.

Mountain biking: Mountain bikes give guests the opportunity to travel long distances at their own pace.

Kalacha is a nearby oasis in the middle of the Chalbi desert where the Gabbra people live.

Mount Kenya: The climb takes a minimum of three full days and requires no specialist equipment. Tours can be arranged through the lodge.

Rutundu: A more leisurely way to see the mountain is to spend a night or two in a small log cabin at Rutundu, a great place for walking and fishing.

Camel Safaris: can be arranged for overnight trips, camping in the bush.

Paragliding@: can also be arranged.

insider tips

Yellow Fever, hepatitis and tetanus vaccinations are recommended for all of East Africa and although Borana is supposedly malaria-free, precautions should be taken.

While in East Africa, only drink bottled water. It is recommended that at least four litres of non-alcoholic fluid be consumed each day to prevent dehydration.

African gastroenteritis 'bugs' are the next most common cause of stomach upsets and diarrhea. Generally, antibiotics will cure this illness within 24 hours.

Kenya offers warm days with cool early mornings and evenings throughout most of the country. The coldest months are June, July and August; the hottest months are January, February and March.

When traveling on safari, baggage should be kept to a minimum. Charter flights and vehicle transfers do not allow a large amount of baggage. Soft duffle bags should be used rather than suitcases, as frequently the air plane baggage lockers cannot fit a large suitcase.

An airport departure tax of US$40 per person, or its equivalent, is payable when leaving Kenya. A local departure tax of Kshs 200 (approx. US$3) per person, per flight, is payable for internal Kenyan flights.

Kenyans drive on the left hand side of the road. It is recommended that you travel with an international driving license if you plan to drive in Kenya.

Sustainability

environment

The ranch is managed holistically with the prime objective being the long-term preservation of the eco-system. Domestic livestock are used as a management tool to improve pasture and there is very little conflict between wildlife and domestic stock. Land is irrigated under certified organic status producing natural essential oils and dried herbs for international and domestic markets and income for the local community.

Most of the food served at Borana Lodge is grown locally and is organic.

All revenue generated from Laragai House is reinvested into the Borana Conservancy, an unspoilt eco system managed holistically to ensure long term

sustainability.

Borana's other conservation partners include the Laikipia Wildlife Forum, Tusk Trust, Save The Rhino, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and the Northern Rangelands Trust and it often provides aircraft for monitoring wildlife. It is also currently financing an elephant corridor that will pass through intensive agricultural land linking Mt Kenya and the Laikipia Ewaso eco-system.

All organic waste is used in organic vegetable and fruit production and inorganic waste is sorted and recycled where possible and the property uses generators, solar panels, wind and inverter systems to minimise energy consumption.

To carefully manage the social and cultural impacts of tourism, Borana hosts a maximum of 34 guests at any one time. Where there is direct engagement with the community, it is by arrangement or invitation, not as an imposition.

The ranch is a founding member of The Ecotourism Society of Kenya.

community

Borana makes a meaningful and sustainable contribution to the livelihoods of the indigenous local people, be it through direct employment or engagement in social and economic development activities, in a manner, which fosters their respect for the environment and causes no harm to the quality and integrity of their traditional cultural values.

Its employment policy is to hire at least 90% of the staff from the local community and the owners were also involved in raising the finance to develop and construct two community lodges on their property, Tassia and Il'Ngwesi Banda, which are completely owned and managed by the Maasai people. You can opt to stay in these lodges or in the two other accommodation choices. The profits from these lodges go directly to the local communities and are used for family income, school projects, secondary school scholarships and game conservation in the surrounding area

The ranch also financed the development of Kamotho Cultural Centre; is the largest private financial contributor to the Laikipia Wildlife Forum; and provides the venue for 'Hide and Sheep' - a natural tanning company which employs blind and physically disabled members of the community.

An educational support program provides bursaries to children from local primary schools, enabling them to go to secondary school and university. A mobile clinic also provides basic health care, HIV AIDS awareness, counselling, birth control and immunisation to all members of the local community. Borana also supports three women's groups in the area which are involved in making local crafts which they sell.

A full time community liaison officer is based at the Borana office and works with local farmers to improve land and livestock management and create business opportunities for young members of the community.

awards

  • Il N'gwesi won the British Airways eco-tourism award in 1999

Getting There

by car

Borana Lodge and Laragai house are a four-hour drive from Nairobi or a one and a half hour drive from Lewa.

Road transfers are also available from the nearest town of Nanyuki which is 40km away.

Tassia and Il Ngwesi are a five hour drive from Nairobi.

Maps and directions will be provided to guests on booking.

by air

There are daily flights from the domestic Wilson Airport in Nairobi to Lewa.

Kenya is well served by major international airlines, which fly into Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (Nairobi) or Moi International Airport (Mombasa).

 

Visit our Transport section for flights, hybrid car rentals and train bookings.

Rates & Bookings

  • Full board accommodation (3 meals per day)
  • All soft drinks, beer, house wine
  • Landry Service
  • Game Drives - day and night
  • Guided walks
  • Horse Riding
  • Game Blinds
  • Mountain Biking

The ranch is closed for the month of November.

$US425 p/person based on double occupancy

$US210 p/person for children under 12

extras

$US60 pp per night conservation fee.

$US30 conservation fee for children.

Rates are valid until November 07

$US385 p/person based on double occupancy

$US190 for single supplement

Children under 12 years are charged at 50% when sharing with parents.

(Discount rates apply to Kenyan residents, please enquire)

extras

$US30 pp per night conservation fee.

$US15 conservation fee for children.

Rates valid until November 07

$US300 p/person based on double occupancy in high season

(15th Dec - 8th Jan, 6th Apr - 9th Apr, 1st July - 31st Aug)

$US260 p/person at all other times

Children under 12 years are charged at 50% when sharing with parents.

(Discount rates apply to Kenyan residents, please enquire)

extras

$US40 pp per night conservation fee.

$US20 conservation fee for children.

booking & cancellation policy

  • A 25% deposit secures reservations and balance must be paid in full 45 days prior to arrival.
  • Cancellation policy: Between 120 and 45 days before stay - 20% of total cost of stay is forfeited
  • Between 30 and 45 days 40% of total cost of stay is forfeited.
  • 100% is forfeited if cancelled 30 days prior to arrival.
 

Want to avoid cancellation fees? Visit our Insurance section for information on travel insurance.

 
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