Il Palio,
Siena, Italy
Il Palio is much more than just a race, it's a Siennese phenomenon. Tied up in those 90 seconds of highly-charged bareback horse racing is a history, passion and rivalry that only the Siennese truly understand. That said, it's still a brilliant party.
Essentially a competition between the various contrade - or districts - of Siena, the annual race sees ten contrada compete for glory. Six warm up races are held in the Piazza del Campo during the days leading up to Il Palio but the important ones are held at 7.40pm on July 2 and 7pm on August 16.
The only real rule in Il Palio is that the winning horse (it doesn't matter if the jockey doesn't make it) must complete three laps of the Piazza del Campo. The course is short but treacherous and the race is often vicious with violence toward rival riders and animals permitted. Often fewer than half of the participants manage to cross the finish line.
But if you want to catch the action you'll have to get there early. Seating is in short supply and if you're hoping for a pew in the stands or on a balcony you'll have to be very well connected or willing to part with some serious cash (prices range from around 500 - 1000 Euros). Otherwise, find a spot in the Piazza del Campo around midday and be prepared to stay there until the races start nearly eight hours later.
If you've got the time the best way to enjoy Il Palio is to spend a couple of days either side of the big race. The celebrations continue long after the race has been won, especially within the districts themselves. Here, locals set up long trestle tables and for a small fee (around 10 Euros) you might be able to join them for a three course slap-up meal that continues long into the night.
Witness the mayhem and madness that comes with Siena's legendary bareback horserace with a ringside seat at Il Palio. Every year on July 2 and August 16 the town erupts into a frenzy of festivities in anticipation - and celebration - of the 90 second dash around the boundary of the city's famous Piazza del Campo.
Il Palio is easily the biggest and most important event on the Siennese calendar and something locals are very passionate about. Expect to see lots of residents in full competitive spirits and foreigners eager for a taste of the action. The atmosphere is contagious and it won't be long before you too are cheering and shouting for your favourite rider.
The festivities last between two and four days and during this time the town literally goes nuts. Spontaneous parades, bawdy sing-alongs, ruthless rivalry, day- (and night-) long celebrations, and an inordinate number of people all contribute towards the frenzied atmosphere that has come to symbolise Il Palio.
Past participants have included Randy Weson, Adam Rudolph, The Wailers, Pharoah Sanders, Keizah Jones, Omar Sosa and Doudou NDiaye Rose. The event continues to grow in popularity; around 20,000 people turned up to the inaugural event in 1998 compared with roughly 500,000 in 2007.
Good places to stay in:
Italy
Accommodation in Siena must be booked as much as a year in advance such is the popularity of Il Palio. If you're not that organised or want to escape the madding crowds then look to Florence or the Tuscan countryside for a bed instead.
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Antico Uliveto Farmhouse, TuscanySituated in the Chianti hills, just 8km from Siena, this calm, organic farmhouse is the perfect place to unwind after the Palio festivities. The four double bedrooms and five apartments are all furnished in the traditional rustic style of the region and there's a lovely, flower-filled garden and swimming pool at guests' disposal. Best of all are the regular dinners offered by the owners that allow guests to sample the delicious organic farm produce.
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Podere La Casellina, TuscanyConveniently located for both Florence and Siena is this working organic farm that's been run by the same family for four generations. The stables and hayloft have been carefully restored and converted into three simple bedrooms (all with ensuite) that command fabulous views of the stunning Tuscan countryside.
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San Vito Farm Stay, TuscanyThe San Vito Estate covers 126 hectares of which 30 are specialised vineyards and 20 are olive groves. Within the picturesque grounds, four old farmhouses have been beautifully and sustainably restored (care for the environment is at the heart of this farm's philosophy) and converted into rooms and apartments that simply ooze rural Tuscan charm.
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Palazzo Magnani, FlorenceIf you want to treat yourself then look no further than this palatial hotel in the heart of Florence. Expect vaulted ceilings, intricate wood-carvings and colourful frescoes in the common areas and all the mod cons you could possibly need in the 12 elegant suites.
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Relais Villa L'Olmo, TuscanyBuilt in the 16th century as the summer residence of a noble Florentine family, this grand property still maintains the elegance and splendour of its early years. The suites and villas are suitably luxurious and the service first class. The property sits in a pretty Chianti valley, just 10km from Florence.
